Food & Wine

It's all about the terrines at Bar Boulud

Daniel Boulud is a master of his craft. The prodigious, world-renowned chef is considered one of America’s leading culinary experts and one of the most revered French chefs in New York City. Best known for his flagship restaurant, the eponymous DANIEL, Chef Boulud has pioneered traditional French cooking in the 21st century. This year celebrates the 20th anniversary of DANIEL, which remains one of the few Manhattan restaurants to have a coveted three-star Michelin rating. Since then, Chef Boulud has continued with a trajectory toward ever-more-casual restaurants, including db Bistro Moderne; DBGB Kitchen and Bar; Bar Boulud; Café Boulud; Boulud Sud and Épicerie Boulud. Boulud is the author of seven cookbooks and was named a Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur by the French government, as well as Chef of the Year 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. 

Tastes change and Daniel Boulud, in his methodical, cautious way, is changing with them. Bar Boulud, which opened in 2008 across from Manhattan’s Lincoln Center, is a sure sign of the times. The French bistro was designed to appeal to the masses, combining a crowded, reasonably priced menu with a casual setting. The comfortable, tunnel-like dining room feels like a modern wine cave with accents that a true oenophile would appreciate, such as “bucket holes” carved into the sides of the booths, wine-stained art lining the walls and a large tasting table for sommelier-friendly groups. The long, chalk-colored room seats around 100, boasting wooden booths and long, communal counters including a charcuterie station. Limestone floors and grated walls filled with more limestone were designed to re-create the earth that grape vines grow from, adding to the organic touches that are so cleverly present.
 
The terrific wine list is one centerpiece of Boulud’s casual dining model and the other is the remarkable selection of charcuterie. The list of nearly10,000 wine selections focus strongly on the Burgundy and Rhône regions, honoring the rustic, diverse menu. Signature terrines and pâtés of famed Parisian charcutier Gilles Verot are sure crowd-pleasers and more popular than any other item on the menu. The smooth pâté grand-mère (chicken liver, pork, Cognac) was delightful on toasted bread with mustard, and a delicious assortment of jellied terrines made with inventive ingredients like beef cheeks and pressed rabbit took first prize. The dinner menu features traditional brasserie standbys like steak frites, coq au vin, moules and escargots, which are staple favorites. The ‘nose to tail’ menu features creative daily specials such as braised pork leg and squid ink pasta with Calabrian chili – dishes you will want to write home about! Desserts are classic standards: fruit pies, meringues, ice creams and chocolate tarts are not to be skimped on. Whatever your fancy, Bar Boulud will keep your attention and have you coming back for more.
 
1900 Broadway (at 64th Street) New York, NY 10023 212.595.0303 | www.barboulud.com 
Open for lunch, brunch and dinner. 
Reservations highly recommended.
Last modified onSaturday, 24 January 2015 21:35
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