Serenity Found ^Featured

Our adventure began after a one-hour drive from La Aurora International Airport to Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site surrounded by massive churches and Spanish architecture. Once Guatemala’s capital, Antigua was struck by a number of earthquakes in the 1700s, which eventually led to a relocation of the country’s capital. Today, horse and buggies click clack on cobblestones streets that crisscross along historic buildings and are lined with restaurants and markets that lead to the city’s Parque Central (Central Park).

Casa Palopó Antigua is quite hidden and blends in beautifully with its surroundings. This is a perfect first-night stop before heading over to Casa Palopó at Lake Atitlán. The actual hotel is located two hours away in Lake Atitlán. As we entered through the hotel’s two massive wooden doors, I was stuck by its open-air courtyard and fountain. Originally built as a private home, this three-bedroom villa has been converted by owner Claudia Bosch into a comfortable and quaint hotel with the ambiance of a B&B.

Each room, equipped with a private bathroom and fireplace, is located right off the courtyard. There are two living rooms, a library, small bar and dining room as well as a small pool. On our trip, Claudia had Chef Mirciny Moliviatis, known as the ambassador for Guatemalan gastronomy and star of two shows, Pure Chefand El Sabor de Mi Tierra(Flavors of My Land), as well as executive chef of several restaurants and a catering company, serve us a very special meal that left us sated and sleepy. Since I was traveling to Central America, and once again leaving 100-degree heat in New York, I was expecting the same. However, I was quite surprised that the temperature dipped into the 50s at night due to the high elevation and I opted to sit by the fireplace, where I quickly fell asleep to the crackling of the logs.

The next morning we headed to Lake Atitlán with a stop at Chichicastenango’s famous marketplace. This in itself was an unbelievable sight. As we reached the beginning of the market, the street virtually disappeared and was entrenched with bright colors from tarps and fabrics and aromas of local dishes being cooked by street vendors. The market was filled with handcrafted masks, blankets, clothes and religious items. Here, as at any market, it’s all about price. And just like buying a car, never pay sticker.

After a couple of hours, I literally couldn’t carry any more items so we headed to Casa Palopó at Lake Atitlán. The driveway escalated uphill with hairpin turns and placed us midpoint between the seven-room hotel and the two-bedroom villa.  This boutique hotel, also once a private home, is perched on the side of a hill overlooking Lake Atitlán, a 1,100-foot-deep lake filling a caldera surrounded by three volcanoes.

Upon entering Casa Palopó, you immediately get a feeling of relaxation. The hotel is very quiet. Like the villa in Antigua, there are no televisions. There is a large living room and bar with an outside terrace and the 6.8 Palopó restaurant.

Each room is spacious and includes a private outdoor terrace, minibar and priceless view. Shortly after I checked in, I was treated to a much-needed in-room spa treatment. Then it was off to dinner upstairs.

The restaurant 6.8 Palopó is an experience in itself. The menu offers up a varied selection of international cuisine of fish, steak, chicken, lamb and pastas. The artichoke gratin and tuna tartar are two appetizers that I strongly recommend.

In the evening, I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable the temperature was –about 72 degrees and zero humidity. I relaxed by the outdoor terrace, glass of wine in hand, overlooking Lake Atitlán illuminated by villages around the water’s edge. A distant lighting storm revealed silhouettes of the three volcanoes. An occasional flicker of light from the candle chandeliers seemed to make the shadows dance while stars filled the dark night sky. The peaceful silence was disturbed only by the sounds of local insects singing their evening song.

The next morning we walked down to the lake for a boat ride to San Antonio where we toured local villagers making textiles and ceramics before heading over to Panajachel. Panajachel, located only a few minutes from Casa Palopó, is the largest and most popular town on the lake with a reputation as a “hippie” hangout. The town is essentially the opposite of San Antonio with its vast stores, restaurants and visitors. We stopped at Circus Bar, which boasted “the best pizza in Guatemala.” Being from New York, of course I was prepared to be critical of the pizza but I have to say, I was pleasantly surprised.

After our walking tour, I headed back to the hotel and hopped on the iPad (yes, there is free WiFi) and before I knew it my phone was ringing. “Mr. Feinberg, they would like you to join them at the pool for cocktails.” I hadn’t even realized that I had fallen asleep for an hour and a half! As I reached the driveway, I looked up to where the Villa was located a little higher up the hill. It was at that point I heard, “Would you like a ride up to the Villa?” Having just woken up, I knew I would be exhausted if I even attempted the walk, and why pass up a perfectly good offer? I joined my colleagues and our host, Claudia, along with her daughter and aspiring chef Marcela, poolside next to a fireplace and I enjoyed a glass of wine while taking in the sunset.

After the sun was down, we retreated back to the hotel’s terrace where we had a lesson by a native “tortillera” in, what else? Tortilla making. While I thought I was quickly becoming a pro, Marcela and her Culinary Institute of America classmates showed up and my tortillas started to look more like doilies than tortillas.

For our last night, we were in for a real dining treat at 6.8 Palopó. Chef/Sommelier Antonio Argueta created a special dinner preview and wine pairing for their new menu which included filet mignon, foie gras and a spinach and shrimp salad with truffle vinaigrette. All in all, it was a five-star meal!

Our trip back the Airport wouldn't be by car

While I stated earlier that this trip was for those who really needed the R&R getaway, I do have to include a little adventure, one that I highly recommend. On our last morning, I awoke like a kid on Christmas. I threw everything into my suitcase without any care, kind of like throwing everything into the closet when your parents make you clean your room. I had never been in such a rush to leave a hotel. And why, you ask, after such a great time? Well, perched below the Villa’s infinity pool were two big circles with an H in the middle. No, this wasn’t the missing key to the Nazca Lines; they were helipads and our trip to the airport wouldn’t be by car.

I rushed up to the helipad (okay, I was driven to the helipad) and unpacked my cameras and waited. And waited. And waited. Then I heard it – the distant rumbling of rotor blades. I suddenly realized that while I had been sitting like a sniper in the same location with my camera aimed off to the south, I actually had no idea where the helicopter was coming from. To make matters worse, between the mountains and volcanoes surrounding the lake, the sound was echoing from all directions. But fate was on my side that day. As I was about to look over my shoulder, I noticed the Eurocopter appear from around the side of the hill, just where I was pointed.

Within a few minutes, all the bags were packed and we were saying our goodbyes. I of course called shotgun and sat in the co-pilot’s seat. After a few quick checks, the rotors started to spin and we were lifting off, headed out over the lake. It was here that we were able to see some amazing scenery. The lake, which didn’t seem very big, was actually 10 miles across; an illusion created by the three volcanoes that rose above 10,000 feet.

We flew back over green countryside pastures and Mayan ruins, as well as small towns and villages. In less than 30 minutes we were landing at the airport, much better than the three hours it would have taken by car. As I boarded the plane back to New York, I thought that at some point, I’m going to need a break from things to just unwind and relax. Well, I had certainly found the place to go!

When you decide to visit Casa Palopó, helicopter and ground transportation can be arranged when you book your reservation. For more information, visit www.casaPalopó.com.